By Liana Satenstein, Staff Writer
Last year, Balmain's Christophe Decarnin designed pricey jackets and costly jeans (think upwards to $12,000). This year, Decarnin, reproduced a collection with the same fundamentals: an edgy femme fatale empowered with sharp shoulder pads and heeled military boots. Yet, some of Decarnin's 2010 collection took a downturn by looking a little washed out, a little reheated – a puzzle made up of coveted leftovers.
The gold lame and black dresses were disorganized and dated. Their mini trains and insipid brassy tones left model, Snejana Onopka, looking washed out and pallid. Even the lazy incorporation of Balmain's signature studded accessories, such as the oversize belts, did not help and made the fit of the dresses seem awkward and disproportionate.
Yet, Decarnin still managed to reap the praise of the press when he stayed loyal to the foundations of Balmain. Decarnin executed a less sophisticated and street look by infusing simple military green fatigues and tattered shirts into the collection. In turn, the choice offered a sensible counter when paired with black jackets and embellished epaulets. As a salute to legs, some models wore dresses that looked more like 20 leotards and short shorts combined with dominatrix looking military heels. At the expense of some sloppily designed dresses, parts Decarnin's collection seemed inconsistent and conflicted. But it was signature pieces that defend the essence of Balmain and will command the same respect from Roitfeld, Alt, and the press.